By Amanpreet Singh
Hey, Cloggers! We’ve chased the sun in Goa, climbed the high passes of Ladakh, and immersed ourselves in the sacred flow of the Ganga. But for our latest escape, we sought something different: a place where culture, tranquility, and the raw beauty of the Himalayas converge without the frantic tourist crowds. Our destination: Almora, the historic heart of the Kumaon region in Uttarakhand.
Almora is not just a hill station; it is a sprawling, horseshoe-shaped ridge town, historically the cultural and administrative capital of Kumaon. It offers a unique blend of old-world charm, unparalleled Himalayan views, and a powerful, meditative serenity that has attracted seekers, artists, and poets for centuries. It’s a destination that slows down time and encourages deep connection—both with the stunning landscape and with your crew.
This comprehensive Almora travel guide documents our four-day journey into the quiet majesty of this region. It was an expedition filled with unexpected architectural wonders, profound spiritual sites, clear views of giants like Nanda Devi, and, as always, generous servings of laughter and fun with friends. Joining me for this truly epic Kumaoni retreat, filled with lovely discoveries and beautiful moments, were my constants: Rahul, Simran, Vikram, and I.
Day 1: Arrival, Heritage, and the Labyrinth of Lala Bazaar
The drive to Almora itself is a scenic introduction to the lower Himalayas. The roads, lined with fragrant pine and deodar forests, wind gently upwards, offering intermittent, tantalizing glimpses of the snow peaks in the distance. The air instantly feels cleaner, lighter, and cooler—a refreshing change from the city heat.
The Lovely Settling In
We chose to stay in a traditional Kumaoni kothar (stone house) slightly outside the main town, aiming for quiet nights and early sunrises. The house, built with slate roofs and dry-stacked stone, was a Lovely blend of rustic charm and modern comfort. The thick stone walls kept the air naturally cool, and the simple courtyard instantly became our evening gathering spot for hot tea and travel planning.
The first few hours were spent just acclimatizing, appreciating the quiet, and soaking in the sun on the wooden balcony overlooking the valley. Almora demands patience; it’s a town that rewards slow exploration.
The Epic Start: Navigating the Historical Heart
The soul of Almora resides in its sprawling, centuries-old Lala Bazaar (or Lal Bazaar). This was our Epic starting point. Unlike the typical linear mall roads of other hill stations, Lala Bazaar is a massive, meandering market built along the horseshoe ridge. Its unique architecture—shops built into the natural slope, with narrow, winding alleyways—feels like stepping back into a merchant town from the 18th century.
The market is famous for its intricate copperware, colorful woolens, and especially the local sweet: Bal Mithai. Our initial mission for the day quickly devolved into the fun with friends activity of finding the best Bal Mithai shop. This involved rigorous sampling (all for journalistic integrity, of course!) and a heated debate over whether the sugar-coated white balls should be crunchy or soft. (Conclusion: They are all delicious, and Vikram bought a kilogram.)
Exploring the market, we saw locals going about their daily lives—not performers for tourists, but simply people engaged in ancient trades. The sense of unbroken tradition in Almora’s core is palpable and utterly captivating.
Day 2: The Spiritual Vortex and the Ultimate View
Day 2 was reserved for spiritual elevation, both literal and metaphorical. Almora is known as a hub for artists and mystics, drawn here by the belief that the area holds a unique geo-magnetic field.
Bright End Corner and the Promise of the Peaks
We started the day at Bright End Corner, a classic viewpoint that marks one end of the Almora ridge. Though the high peaks were shrouded in early morning clouds, the light scattering across the valley was spectacular. This is also the location of the Vivekanand Memorial, honoring Swami Vivekananda, who meditated here.
The quiet, organized nature of Almora truly distinguishes it. Even at a popular viewpoint, there was a sense of respectful calm, allowing us to absorb the scenery without undue noise. We lingered, sipping pahadi chai and waiting for the cloud curtain to lift.
The Beautiful Moment: Kasar Devi Temple
Our main destination for the day was the Kasar Devi Temple, perched atop a hill about 7 km outside the town center. The drive leads through pine forests, and the short walk up to the temple is serene.
Kasar Devi is legendary. It is said to lie on one of only three spots on Earth where the magnetic field is strongest (the other two being Machu Picchu and Stonehenge). This powerful field has historically attracted everyone from Swami Vivekananda and the German mystic Ernst Lothar to the counterculture artists of the 60s and 70s.
The Beautiful Moment arrived as we stood on the temple grounds. The air here does feel different—intensely still, sharp, and clear. But the real magic is the view. The temple offers a phenomenal, 360-degree panoramic vista: on one side, you see the entire horseshoe-shaped Almora town spread out below, and on the other, an uninterrupted, snow-white canvas of the mighty Himalayas.
We were lucky: the clouds parted, revealing the stunning, majestic peaks of Nanda Devi, Trishul, and Panchachuli. Seeing these giants rise above the clouds, bathed in sunlight, was a moment of humbling silence that washed over the entire crew. It was a reminder of why this place has held spiritual significance for millennia—the sheer proximity to the sublime. The collective awe we felt was deeper than any other high-altitude experience we’d shared.
The Alternative Culture and the Lovely Evening
The area around Kasar Devi still holds onto its bohemian past. We had lunch at a tiny, colorful cafe famous for its laid-back vibe and global travelers. The afternoon was spent walking the small forest paths around the temple, filled with the Lovely scent of pine needles and damp earth.
In the evening, back at our cottage, the fun with friends turned competitive as we gathered around a small fire pit (a necessity in the cool mountain night), playing cards and trying to identify the various high peaks visible in the moonlight, fueled by more Bal Mithai and hot rasam we had cooked ourselves.
Day 3: A Journey to the Ancient Stone Forest of Jageshwar
Almora is the perfect base for explorations into Kumaon’s architectural history, and our target for Day 3 was the most significant—the Jageshwar Temple Complex. This requires a full-day commitment, but the reward is worth the Epic journey.
The Epic Journey to the Deodar Heart
The drive to Jageshwar, about 35 km away, is stunning but long. It winds deep into the heart of a dense deodar forest. The trees here are colossal, ancient, and the air is thick with their heady fragrance. The descent into the narrow valley where the temples reside is dramatic.
Jageshwar is not a single temple; it is a cluster of over 124 beautifully preserved stone temples, built between the 7th and 12th centuries, nestled in the shadow of towering deodar trees. This complex is one of the 12 Jyotirlingas dedicated to Lord Shiva and represents a pinnacle of early medieval Hindu architecture (the Nagara style).
The scale and concentration of the temples were Epic. We spent hours wandering through the complex, marveling at the intricate carvings, the ancient stone lingas (some of them massive), and the perfect craftsmanship that has kept these structures standing for over a thousand years. The silence here, broken only by the wind through the deodars and the occasional bell, felt incredibly sacred.
Architectural Wonder and Historical Reflection
We were particularly struck by the different sizes and shapes of the temples, from the towering Dandeshwar to the smaller Mrityunjaya temple. The architectural detail—the subtle differences in the door frames, the detailed sculptures of deities, and the simple, powerful geometry of the structures—was a profound Beautiful Moment for all of us. It was a moment of true intellectual curiosity mixed with spiritual awe. We consulted our guidebooks frequently, trying to decipher the various styles and historical layers.
After Jageshwar, we drove a little further to Vriddha Jageshwar (Old Jageshwar), situated higher up in the hills. This spot offers an older, more isolated complex of ruins and even greater solitude. The sight of the massive, ancient deodar trees surrounding these forgotten temples added a layer of mystery and reverence to the journey.
Returning late in the evening, exhausted but exhilarated, the fun with friends was the shared understanding of the sheer historical wealth we had witnessed. We talked less about the altitude and more about the artistry of the Kumaoni craftsman, realizing that Almora truly sits at the crossroads of nature and profound human endeavor.
Day 4: Culture, Copper, and the Kumaoni Farewell
Our final day was dedicated to appreciating the contemporary culture and history that Almora embodies before heading back to the plains.
Culture and History at the Museum
We visited the Govind Ballabh Pant Public Museum, which offers a wonderful collection of artifacts, local folk art, and historical information about the Kumaon region, including ancient tamra patras (copper plate inscriptions) and sculptures. This helped contextualize the history we had just witnessed at Jageshwar.
A final stroll through the Lala Bazaar was mandatory—not just for last-minute souvenirs (more bal mithai and some copper bowls) but to absorb the atmosphere one last time. We found a small shop selling handmade woolens and chatted with the owner, who offered us a glimpse into the slow, rhythmic life of the Almora residents.
The Lovely Final View
Our final Lovely moment was spending the late morning on the patio, with the peaks of Nanda Devi and Trishul clear, having shed their morning haze. We shared a final, quiet breakfast, reflecting on the simplicity and depth of the Almora experience.
Almora is not about frantic sightseeing; it’s about stillness, clarity, and history. It’s the perfect destination for friends who want to explore a mountain town that feels genuinely connected to its past—a place where the grandeur of the Himalayas is matched by the intricate beauty of its ancient temples and the slow, peaceful rhythm of its cultural life.
We left the horseshoe ridge with clearer heads and a shared promise to return, knowing that the spiritual vortex of Almora had left its indelible, peaceful mark on our souls.
Where is the most spiritually charged place you have ever visited? Let me know below!
Stay inspired and reflective, Amanpreet Singh clogtheblog.com
